Don't Read
This...
...Unless you've already read
Two Wheels and a
Map. (Otherwise this won't
make much sense.) What's below is a bit of follow-up
information about some of the people I met on my bike trip,
as well as a few anecdotes that were not included in the
book.
If you liked Two Wheels and a Map and wished there just one more
chapter...now there is. Recently I revisited the Wilmington,
N.C., area and finally biked a 30-mile segment of my route
that I had been unable to ride during my trip due to a bike
malfunction. Read about it
here.
Here are links to other interesting
bits of info about my trip:
Rev. Steele:
The Preacher From Hell
Whenever I tell people the story of my entrapment by the
sadistic preacher in Snead's Ferry, N.C., they invariably
inform me that they would have walked away from the man
after only five minutes. No one can understand why I allowed
myself to be subjected to his sermonizing for two hours. And
right now, even I can't believe that I put up with him for
that long. But before you condemn me and assume you would
have handled it much differently, consider this:
- I was exhausted after riding through that horrible Camp Lejeune Marine Base
with my wheel so impaired it barely moved.
- I had heard it was going to rain and Jones offered me
a pavilion.
- I had seen no other suitable camping spots.
- I kept thinking he was almost finished.
And then there's the fifth reason. The entire time he was
talking, I was composing a letter in my head that I planned
to write to him when I got home. And that was exactly what I
did. I was merciless in letting him know how I felt. I
didn't just insult him, and thus turn him against me, I took
the tactic of explaining to him why he had failed to convert
me and in what ways he had pissed me off. Here's what I
wrote him, days after I returned home. Though I was tempted
to reword a few things, I left everything exactly as I wrote
it years ago. (I should reveal at this point that I changed
the name of this awful preacher in the book. I called him
Rev. Steele. His real name was Rev. Jones. "One of the Jones
boys," he had laughingly said to me when we first met and I
still thought he was a nice guy.)
Dear Rev. Jones,
I trust you will remember me as the
bicyclist whom you allowed to camp on your lawn in late
June. You may be pleased to know that I made it
successfully to Ft. Lauderdale without any problems or
accidents. I wanted to thank you again for allowing me to
spend the night on your land.
As I rode, I gave a lot of thought
to your words of that night. As I enjoy helping my brothers
and sisters on this earth, I felt I should let you
understand why exactly you failed in your quest to convert
me into the Born Again faith. I respect the fact that you're
trying to bring people to God on this earth, but you're
dealing with human beings, and humans do not generally like
to be insulted. Although you kept it low key, this is
essentially what you were doing by continually making an
issue of the fact that I call the Bible "the Bible" and you
call it "the King James Bible." To me it is the Holy Bible
whether you call it King James or King Jones, and attempting
to make me look stupid did not endear you to me at the
onset.
Also, you made it obvious that you
did not approve of my cycling adventure by telling me
stories of your unfortunate friend's cycling death. I
realize you thought you were cautioning me, but did you
seriously expect me to halt my trip right then because of
the stories? And there was a definite subtle condemnation of
the fact that I was a "college boy," which did not help me
to keep an open mind to your message.
Now, I came to you totally
exhausted and you answered my request for a place to sleep.
I was even willing to listen to your words, despite the
subtle condemnations. But, being as exhausted as I was, I
was not ready to listen to anyone, even a human messenger of
God's word, for two solid hours! It was a direct affront on
my politeness.
This "college boy" studied
communications and there are two things that I learned that
may help you:
1) People have short attention
spans, lasting no more than a half hour. A speaker must get
his message across in the first 20 minutes. This means he
must establish an amiable rapport and get right to the point
without repetition.
2) When someone is forced, out of
politeness as I was, to listen to a speaker for a
discourteous length of time, their reaction is to turn
against the message being presented. The longer the speaker
continues to rudely take up the polite person's time, the
more angrily the listener grows to detest the message. By
forcing me to listen when I was so obviously tired and
wanted to set up my tent before dark, you turned me away
from your message.
I feel that had you 1) avoided your
initial sarcastic subtleties, and 2) condensed your
monologue, picking only important, convincing arguments (and
avoiding repetition, which seemed to be your favorite flaw),
you would have had a much better chance of allowing me to
indiscriminately listen to your lecture. As it was, your
method provided me with no chance to hear you with an open
mind, since I was filled with resentment for the
inappropriate length of time you were abusing my politeness.
It's almost comical that you actually thought your monologue
was so convincing and your oration skills so superb that I
would actually drop to my knees and convert right then,
solely because of your repetitive monologue.
The only answer, my friend, is to
recognized when you have overstepped your time limit. Halt
your words before you turn listeners against you sheerly
through the unwelcome time imposition, not because they
disagree with your words, the bible or Jesus Christ.
Religious people seem to have a bad reputation simply
because they seem pushy. Listeners resent having their time
taken up. I sincerely hope you can remember some of my
suggestions, perhaps changing that unfortunate image and
gaining more people to your side.
I hope the time I put into this
letter is accepted for what it is, an attempt at helping
you, and not foolishly condemned as a blasphemy against God.
I thank you again for allowing me to sleep there, but don't
ever force an exhausted bicyclist to stay attentive for such
an impertinent length of time again. It's nothing but
detrimental to you and your message.
_____________________________
Since I didn't want him and his minions to know where I
lived, I left off my return address, though I would have
loved to hear his response. I was just a bit worried that he
would try to take revenge on me, though after looking at the
letter now, I think I was way too polite. I should have been
meaner.
What do you think?
How'd I get back home from
Ft. Lauderdale?
I flew. But the whole time I was biking, I never gave a
thought to how I'd get home, which was crazy. I now know
that if you don't buy a plane ticket two weeks before you
want to leave, the price skyrockets. So I was the luckiest
person on earth when a travel agent got me a ticket to
Philadelphia for just $120, leaving two days later. At the
time, though, I was actually pissed that I had to buy a
round trip ticket to get that rate, since I assumed,
wrongly, that a one-way would be half that price. But now I
marvel that I got so lucky.
I spent 5 days at Dave's apartment in Davie, Fla., and we
barely went outside at all. He had a huge collection of
videotapes, so we watched movies for days. I kind of wanted
to do something outside and see the area, but I also
thought: "Screw it. I've seen enough." So I watched
movies. Kind of a boring ending after all that activity, I
know.
Why did I wait a year between
trips?
Yes, I'll admit I did mislead a bit in the book by not
stating outright that my bus ride up to Bangor was nearly
a year after I arrived in Florida. But though I tried
to blend the two trips to make them seem like one, it was
only to create a flow for the story. I thought that by
bluntly explaining the passage of time, I'd ruin the mood
and create questions (like this one) about what I had been
doing in the year between.
Truthfully, I hadn't really thought about doing the
Bangor to Pennsylvania part until months after I'd returned
from Florida. But I did come clean in my introduction when I
said that the book was a chronicle of my 1990 and 1991
trips.
Anyway, the Bangor trip stayed in my head as a dream for
most of the year after I returned from Lauderdale. During
that time, I managed to get a freelance writing position
with the Philadelphia Inquirer. I worked long, odd
hours and received very low pay, but the job got me writing,
which was what I wanted. As summer 1991 approached, I
realized that I was in a perfect position to stop dreaming
about going to Bangor and start doing it. Because I was a
freelancer, I could easily take two weeks off. So I sent
away for state maps, packed my gear, and headed out.
What do you think?
Did I keep in
touch with any of the people I met?
I tried. I sent post cards to all
the main people who helped me on the ride to Florida. At
Christmas I sent cards to the Branhams, the Knights, and
several others. I included my address, but I never heard
back from anyone. Only Mrs. Doherty from New York City ever
wrote me, as I noted at the end of the book. We sent letters
and cards back and forth for a year. She told me about her
son, who was my age and who got engaged at some point after
my trip.
But this correspondence ended
abruptly after I sent her a copy of the article I wrote for the
Philadelphia
Inquirer about my Maine
to Pennsylvania ride. I thought she'd be excited to see her
family's name in print. But she never wrote back. I've
often wondered if she was pissed off at the article, and if
she felt betrayed. After all, I did make it clear in that
story that I thought all New Yorkers were insolent and not
to be trusted. Of course, I wrote that just so I could
illustrate how wrong I was after being taken in by John and
Ann and treated so well. But perhaps they felt insulted. In
any case, I never heard from her again.
What do you think?
In my song
"Southern Man" at the end of the book, I mentioned making a
phone call to a bike shop. Why wasn't that in the
book?
"Can I please make a phone call
to a bike shop up ahead?"
I tried to reimburse him but he shook his head instead.
"Have a drink, relax," is what he said.
This was one of many minor
encounters that I cut during the editing stage. This
incident happened just before I entered the horrible Camp
Lejeune Marine Base. Having failed to find the proper
freewheel in New Bern, I thought I'd try to phone a bike
shop in Jacksonville, N.C., to see if they had the part.
Jacksonville was out of my way, so I didn't want to go there
unless they had the part. Near the town of Belgrade, I
knocked at the door of a house to ask if I could use the
phone to call the bike shop. An older gentleman answered and
agreed to let me use his phone.
At first he either asked me to pay
for the call because it was a toll call, or I offered to
pay, but after I made the call (and learned that they didn't
have the part), he wouldn't take my money. Instead, he
poured me a drink of coke and bade me sit in the kitchen
while he and his wife asked me friendly questions about my
trip. I took down their address and sent them a post card
when I reached Florida.
More
about the Parrot Man.
I call him the Parrot Man because
he had parrots in a cage on his front porch in Bath, N.C.
(And because I never learned his name.) He didn't actually
help me much, because all he told me was that there was a
bike shop in the dreaded Washington, N.C., which I had
already known. But he did relate to me that cool anecdote
about the preacher putting a curse on the town, way back
when.
While I was with him in his house,
his daughter phoned. I kind of stood there poking around at
things while he talked to her. From eavesdropping on the
conversation I learned that the daughter's roommate had
secretly moved out and stolen all her money. But then the
man started asking her if she was going to get rabies shots.
I couldn't figure out the connection. Rabies shots? Had
her roommate bitten her too? Robbed her blind and then
chomped on her ankle? I wanted the answer but thought it
would be too rude to ask. And since I didn't know, I left it
out of the book.
Danger in Plymouth, N.C.
I'm not sure why I left this out of
the book--perhaps because I wasn't completely sure of what
was going on--but I blundered into a potentially dangerous
situation while riding through Plymouth, N.C. Plymouth, you
will recall, was the nice town that I fell in love with
after watching kids getting rides in a hot air balloon and
talking with some of the residents. I later met Bessie Brown
and Rev. Everton and was allowed to spend the night in the
church. Well, before I met Bessie, I took a ride through
some neighborhoods to a food store, where I bought supplies.
On my way back to find the church,
glowing with the good mood the town had engendered in me, I
came speeding down a residential street right into the midst
of a large crowd of black teenagers. They were hanging
around on the street corner, with another large group on the
other side of the street. I was going fast so I didn't have
much time to see what they were doing. But as I reached
them, I heard a few angry outbursts, clearly directed at me,
with some profanity thrown in. Though I'm not sure exactly
what was said, the general feeling I got was that some
members of this group resented my passing through their
neighborhood and wanted to beat the shit out of me. I kept
going without looking back, and the incident slightly soured
my mood, but I managed to push it aside and enjoy my stay in
the town nonetheless.
What do you think?
Any gay
experiences?
No.
I was, however, propositioned by a
gay man in St. Augustine. It happened as I wandered through
the old quarter at night, browsing through some old shops
with no intention of buying anything. In one antiques shop,
the proprietor began asking me questions, and I eventually
revealed that I was biking from Pennsylvania. He seemed
impressed. At least that's how I interpreted his
statement: "Wow. You must have strong legs." I ignored
his subsequent leering stare at my legs.
He then asked where I slept while
on the road. I told him about camping and churches, and
mentioned that I was staying that night in a local hostel.
Ignoring this last bit of info, he then said, with a knowing
wink: "I have a couch you could sleep on." I turned quite
red and mumbled something to the tune of "thanks anyway."
Then I fled, feeling somehow violated. O.K., so I made up
the "knowing wink" part, but it was still clear from his
tone and particular way of speaking that he was gay. And
hey, I can't blame him for trying, and I bear him no grudge.
I mean, even if he was gay, he was probably a really nice
guy and I might have had an enjoyable visit to his place
with no sexual allusions whatsoever. But I slept fine in the
hostel, thank you.
What do you think?
What's the deal with your hatred of
lycra cycling shorts?
I don't hate them. OK, perhaps I came off sounding a bit
harsh toward them in the book, but if anything that was just
a backlash brought on by the times that "experienced"
cyclists poked fun at my choice of attire and told me,
essentially, that I wouldn't be able to cycle to Florida in
my cutoffs. I think people should cycle in whatever they're
comfortable wearing, and leave others to do the same.
As for my choice of wearing cutoffs, I have never felt
uncomfortable biking in these. They suit me just fine. I
like them for their pockets, for their loose fit, for the
way they look and for the fact that I have numerous pairs to
choose from. The important thing is that I enjoy cycling.
Come on, Bob,
didn't you have even one bad experience with a stereotypical
southern "redneck?"
Actually, I did. In Jacksonville, Florida, I was riding
down a road, minding my own business, when a pickup truck
came racing towards me. Suddenly it changed lanes and got
into my lane, heading right toward me. The driver apparently
intended to have some fun by forcing me off the road.
Instead of giving him that pleasure, I turned my head away
from him, as if I hadn't noticed his approach, and pretended
to look off to my right, while I kept my eyes on him to see
what he would do. He kept speeding toward me, but when he
realized that he might actually lose this game of chicken
and hit me, since I didn't appear to have seen him, he
veered away and passed me.
Got a question? Go ahead and ask.
Don't forget to read the
new final chapter of Two Wheels and a Map.
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